Portable a c unit for garage: Best Portable Air Conditioner for a Garage in 2023 Reviewed
Best Portable Air Conditioner for a Garage in 2023 Reviewed
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Throughout the warmer months, staying cool is our top priority. However, knowing the best way to do that can sometimes be tricky. Investing in central air or even window AC units is the answer for most of your home, but it’s entirely different when it comes to cooling the garage.
There are numerous reasons why keeping your garage cool is trickier than anywhere else in your house, and we’ll walk you through them in this guide. We also share why we recommend the EcoFlow Wave as the best portable AC unit for a garage and factors to consider so that you won’t make any mistakes with your first purchase. Let’s get into it!
Can You Cool a Garage With a Portable Air Conditioner?
The short answer is yes; you can use a portable AC to cool the garage. However, there are some caveats to this that you should know.
The first challenge is that, unfortunately, cooling a garage isn’t as simple as cooling down the other rooms of your house. The reasons for this are numerous, and we will get into them further down. For now, let’s talk about what it will take for a portable air conditioner to cool your garage efficiently.
First, you need to understand how the cooling capacity of a portable air conditioner is measured. The measurement for ACs is in BTU, otherwise known as British Thermal Units. It is a unit of measurement that indicates the heat content of fuels or energy sources.
Cooling a single-car garage would likely take a portable AC unit with a rating of 7000 BTU. For a double car garage, you would need something closer to 12,000. These BTU ratings are approximations, not guarantees, as different garages will have varying requirements.
Problems With Using Portable Air Conditioners in a Garage
As we mentioned before, it is possible to cool a garage with a portable air conditioner, but that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s easy. You may run into issues after installing your portable AC, even if you get the correct BTU. We have listed some of the most common problems you may encounter when trying to cool your garage.
Lack of Insulation
Your garage isn’t like the other rooms in your home, which typically have insulation in the walls, ceilings, and around windows and doors. Sealing leaks around these insulated areas can reduce air infiltration by 25%.
Unfortunately, most garages lack insulation. Your garage does not protect itself efficiently from the outdoor heat. Any cool air in your garage will be quickly replaced with hotter air from outside without the proper preventative measures.
Issues With Ventilation
Ventilation is also a problem in most garages. Unlike other rooms in your home, your garage will likely have no windows or vents, meaning air flow is minimal.
Inadequate ventilation means the hot air that gets in via the garage door has nowhere to go and simply accumulates, making it very difficult to cool down. Sometimes, your garage may be up to 18°F (8°C) hotter than the outdoors. That’s a significant jump!
The Size of Your Garage
Portable air conditioners are highly convenient due to their size and the fact that you can position them wherever you want. However, it also means that they aren’t the most powerful because of their smaller stature.
More oversized garages are harder to keep cool because there is more hot air for the AC unit to filter out. A portable AC on its own may not be able to handle a large garage, so consider this before making a purchase.
What’s the Best Portable Air Conditioner for a Garage? Choose EcoFlow!
So, now we have walked you through some potential problems attached to cooling a garage with a portable AC, it’s time to discuss the solution. The right product can make all the difference, and we have the perfect one for you: the EcoFlow Wave.
The EcoFlow Wave Portable Air Conditioner
When it comes to portable AC units, there are none on the market right now as impressive and practical as the EcoFlow Wave. With 4000BTUs of cooling power, it can keep your spaces colder for longer, achieving your desired room temperature in as little as eight minutes.
You also can fit an additional battery to your Wave Portable AC unit to give you an extra three hours of cooling time. You can extend the run-time to eight hours when enabling the timer, allowing your unit to switch between cooling and fan settings.
The internal inverter compressor is unique to the EcoFlow Wave, making it more powerful than other portable AC units on the market. You can also keep your AC running in numerous ways since you can charge your unit via your car, wall outlet, or solar power. You have options!
Best of all, thanks to the EcoFlow Wave Wi-Fi and Bluetooth compatibility, you can control everything from your smartphone. No more getting up from family dinner or going downstairs when you’re about to go to bed to check your AC status. You’re in complete control no matter where you are, and your garage will have never felt so comfortable.
You also don’t need to worry about leaks or pooling after use since the heating tube redirects all of the exhaust, allowing it to evaporate completely.
Specifications
- BTUs: 4000
- Run Time: 3-12 hours
- Max Cooling Power: 600W
- Cooling Capacity: 1200W
- Dimensions: 20.39 x 12.2 x 16.38in
- Cooling Temperature Settings: 16°C ~ 30°C (60.8°F ~ 86°F)
- Net Weight: 38.58lbs
- Bluetooth: Supported
- Wi-Fi: Supported
- Charging Input: AC, Car, and Solar
- Ambient Temperature: 5°C ~ 50°C (41°F ~ 122°F)
- Circulation Air Volume: 290m”3″/h
- Noise Level: <55dB
- Add-On Battery Power: Max 600W
Consider Adding the DELTA Pro!
The EcoFlow Wave already has an impressive battery life and run time, but if you want to take it to the next level, we recommend bundling it with the DELTA Pro portable power station. The additional power will keep your AC unit going for up to twelve hours at a time, so you never need to worry about an overheated garage again.
How to Choose the Best Portable Air Conditioner for a Garage
When it comes to purchasing a portable air conditioner, there are some criteria you need to pay attention to before committing to anything. The last thing you want to do is invest in a product that isn’t up to the task. Listed below are some of our top tips for making the right purchase.
Buy the BTU Rating Suited for Your Needs
Size matters, but when it comes to your portable air conditioner’s size, we are talking about its BTU rating. The literal size isn’t as critical unless you have only limited space. But, let’s face it, many of us use our garages as an extra storage facility, so there should be some spare room.
Make sure your portable AC has an appropriate BTU rating powerful enough for the job in addition to being able to fit where you need it to go.
Consider How Often Your Garage Gets Hot
Your climate is an essential factor because it will dictate how often your AC unit will be in use. If your garage only occasionally reaches high temperatures — or you don’t spend much time in there — you might not need a portable AC unit.
However, if you experience hot temperatures for extended periods, a portable AC unit can prove seriously helpful, especially if you spend a lot of time in your garage. Hot weather can prove lethal, so it isn’t something to take lightly!
Think About How Many You Need
As we said before, one of the benefits of portable AC units is their size. You can fit them just about anywhere — and you don’t need a window — meaning you can double up if necessary.
With larger garages, you might find a single unit can’t handle the heat by itself. If you have the space available, you can double your cooling power for maximum effect.
While buying more than one unit may not have been in your original plan, it could keep you significantly cooler in the long term.
Make the Right Investment to Prevent Damage
Portable AC units are generally more affordable than traditional AC options, but they can still get pricey. Just remember that this is an investment, and prolonged heat exposure can prove significantly damaging.
It’s not just your health that could be affected, but also the integrity of everything you keep in your garage. Your car, tools, and even furniture could suffer heat damage. Investing in the right AC unit could save you money later on.
Conclusion
So there you have it, our complete guide to the best portable AC unit currently on the market. Although cooling your garage is more challenging than cooling the rest of your house, it isn’t impossible. With the EcoFlow Wave smart appliances, you won’t have to worry about high temperatures in your garage ever again. It’s a one-off investment that pays off long-term.
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3 Best Portable Air Conditioners for Garages
What are the best portable air conditioners for garages? Where should you set up the portable AC in your garage? Especially, when you don’t have a window, you’ll need some installation work. And how can you maximize the efficiency of your garage AC? This article will clarify all of these questions!
Quick answer: The best portable air conditioner for garages is the Whynter ARC-14S. Because it’s a dual-hose AC, it’s very efficient when cooling hot garages. However, you will need a window fitting two hoses or you will need to drill two holes in your garage wall for installation. If that’s too much, get the recommended Black+Decker single-hose portable AC.
Best Portable Air Conditioners for Garages
Before we dive into the proper portable AC setup for garages, here are my recommendations:
#1 Whynter ARC-14S (14,000 BTU cooling capacity)
The Whynter ARC-14S (click here to view it on amazon) is a strong dual-hose portable AC. I’ve ranked this model #1 because it has a significantly higher efficiency than other portable ACs.
Good efficiency helps you cut your electricity bill for garages, which are not ideally insulated. Regular portable ACs have just one hose that blows air out. This means somewhere air has to be sucked into the AC. And because there’s no second hose, the air from within your garage is sucked in and blown out. Get my point?
Single-hose portable ACs cool the air, and then blow that same cooled air outside.
The Whynter AC’s dual-hose system mimics the structure of a split AC. One hose is a waste heat hose. The other sucks in air from outside which is used for cooling.
Dual-hose portable ACs are technically superior to single-hose ACs. And that’s why I always rank them #1.
#2 BLACK+DECKER Air Conditioner (14,000 BTU cooling capacity)
The Black+Decker portable AC (click to view it on amazon) is a 14,000 BTU cooling capacity single-hose AC. It is rated with the same cooling capacity as my #1, the Whynter AC.
However, because of the flaws of single-hose systems that I just explained, this portable AC has to consume more power to make up for the lack of efficiency.
I’d suggest getting the Black+Decker AC over the Whynter AC only if you don’t have the opportunity (or don’t want) to connect two hoses to the window.
Especially, if you don’t have a window and you’ll have to drill a hole through your garage’s wall, getting a single-hose AC might be the better choice.
It’s better for the structural integrity of your garage (although two small holes won’t be a big problem). And it saves you installation time.
So: This Black+Decker portable AC will cool your garage just as well as the Whynter AC. Also, it’s easier to set up. However, it will consume more electricity.
#3 SereneLife Portable AC (12,000 BTU)
This SereneLife portable AC (click to view it on amazon) is a 12,000 BTU portable air conditioner. So, just by the cooling capacity rating, this model is around 14% weaker than the other recommendations.
But usually, you won’t notice the difference that much. Especially in 1,2 or even 3 car garages. This AC is still large enough.
Actually, I included this AC not because there is a technical reason that makes it a great AC for garages specifically, but rather because it has such a long track record of being sold. And I, personally, like products that are trusted.
Most portable ACs work the same. This one is just another portable AC.
What makes a portable AC suitable for garages?
A portable AC for garages must be powerful because garages are oftentimes improperly insulated. In the summertime, garages heat up fast. And an AC has to be able to keep up with it.
That’s why I only included 14,000 BTU or 12,000 BTU ACs in the recommendations.
In general, I’d say you should prefer powerful over weak portable ACs.
A powerful portable air conditioner can always reduce its cooling power when the desired temperature is reached (thanks to the built-in thermostat).
A weak portable air conditioner, however, can not increase its cooling capacity if it’s not able to reach the target temperature.
It’s the same with cars: A strong-engine car can always drive slowly and efficiently. But a weak car can never drive fast.
That’s why I recommend getting a strong 14,000 BTU or 12,000 BTU portable AC for your garage. During the hottest weeks of the year, you’ll be happy about your decision.
Which air conditioner is best for large garages (3,4,5 cars)
For large garages, a window air conditioner or a split AC is the best. They output even more cold air for the same amount of electricity. Window and split ACs have a higher cooling efficiency than portable ACs.
Because they don’t have these cheap hoses that portable ACs have and because the hot air-releasing part of the AC unit is always located outside, they don’t have the same efficiency problems as portable ACs.
How to improve portable air conditioner cooling power in a garage
You can improve the cooling efficiency of your portable air conditioner by improving the insulation of your garage.
Here are the steps you can take:
- Seal the gaps below your garage door: A lot of hot air enters the garage through the gaps below the garage door. Ensure they are properly sealed. You could use, for example, this Garage Door weather seal (click here to view it on amazon).
- Insulate the air conditioner hose: A portable AC blows waste heat outside through the attached hose. Since it’s usually made of plastic, it does not hold heat at all. By properly insulating the hose using an aluminum insulation wrap, you can decrease the amount of heat reentering your garage.
I’ve written an article specifically about making portable ACs more efficient, so have a look here: How to make a portable AC more efficient
Can you vent a portable AC through a garage door?
Yes, you can vent a portable AC through a garage door. However, you’ll have to build the venting setup yourself. Portable AC garage door kits don’t exist.
At least I did not find any.
I guess it has to do with the size of garage doors, which the garage door kit would have to cover. That’s not feasible mostly.
You can build your own venting construction by drilling a hole (for the waste heat hose) through a wood board. Then, you can connect the portable AC hose to the wood board vent.
And then, you can insert it into the garage door gap and seal the open rest of the gap.
You can use aluminum wrap, styrofoam, or wood to seal the gaps. Using double layers further improves the insulation!
How and where to install a portable AC in a garage?
In a garage, you can install your portable AC either directly to a drilled hole in the wall, or you can install it below a window (as it is intended).
In general, drilling your own vent has the advantage of not blocking your (potentially only) garage window.
Also, garage windows rarely are big enough to fit a portable AC window kit. Or the space below the garage window is already blocked.
I find drilling a hole generally the best approach. But if your window allows it, installing it there is just as good.
How to install a portable air conditioner in your garage without a window?
Locate any free spot in your garage. The best about drilling your own vent is that you can place it (almost) anywhere you like.
As a tool, you can use a hammer drill with a strong drilling bit.
- Ensure there is no wire or pipe running through the wall where you want to drill. You can use a wire and pipe detector for this. But you can also use your common sense. If there’s no sink or wall outlet around, the likelihood of damaging a wire or pipe is very small.
- Drill around 15 to 20 holes in a circle. The vent does not need to be as large a diameter as the AC hose. A small 3 inches hole is enough. Larger is of course better since this improves airflow.
- Knock the loose brick out.
- Mount a metal pipe through the hole that guides the air outside (so the waste heat is not absorbed by the garage wall)
- Mount the AC window kit which is included with the AC in front of the hole. You can glue the plastic to a wood construction and then mount the wood construction to your drilled venting hole.
How to install a portable AC in a garage window
To install a portable AC in a garage window, you can use the window kit included with the AC. If it doesn’t fit your garage window, you can build your own venting construction.
If you only have a small garage window, consider drilling your own vent instead. It’s easier to set up, does not block the window (and the sunlight), and you can place the vent anywhere you want.
When you use a window as a vent, the placement of your portable AC is locked to the area around the window.
If you have multiple windows, then choose a window that’s closest to where you are spending the most time. This exposes you to the cold air coming out of the AC and reduces the perceived temperature in the garage for you.
Is there an air conditioner that doesn’t need to be vented?
As a garage owner, you probably want to spare yourself the hassle of setting up an AC in your garage. But, a vent is necessary.
All air conditioners have to be vented. Any air conditioner that claims to need no vent is a marketing scam and has no technical foundation.
Air conditioners absorb heat from a room. And the heat has to go somewhere. Now, if you don’t vent it, the heat will stay in your room and the temperature won’t change.
Without a vent, cooling is impossible.
It might be possible to change the perceived temperature of a room without a vent. For example, using a humidifier or a pedestal, or a floor fan. However, this does not reduce the actual temperature.
It only changes your feeling about the temperature.
So: If you want real air conditioning in your garage, you will have to set up a vent.
Will a portable air conditioner work in a garage?
Yes, all portable air conditioners will work in a garage given you set up a vent (through a window or a drilled hole in the wall).
Also, you have to ensure that your portable AC is properly sized for your garage.
I could give you a list of garage sizes and required portable AC cooling capacities so you can pick the properly sized portable AC for your garage.
However, I generally prefer stronger models over weaker models. A strong portable air conditioner will cool any garage size. While with a weak air conditioner you will only be able to cool small garages (meaning you will never be able to use the portable AC if you ever want to use it in a larger space).
Just check the recommended portable air conditioners at the beginning of this article. They suit 99% of garages.
Are there more methods to cool down my garage with no windows?
If you have a garage without windows, you can’t set up proper air conditioning without drilling holes. Instead, you should use a floor fan.
A floor fan can blow large amounts of air in a short time. It will reduce the perceived temperature in a garage.
Also, if your garage accumulates a lot of heat, a floor fan can wipe out the heated air within just a couple of minutes.
I have an 80W floor fan (which is just a fraction of the wattage of a portable AC by the way) and I am able to cool down my entire living space in early summer mornings or late nights using it.
Floor fans are incredibly cost-effective.
Development of a power source for an energy-intensive portable device / Sudo Null IT News
Good day to all habrazhiteley.
This post belongs to the “Do it yourself” section and describes a simple (in my opinion) way to solve the problem of power control.
At leisure, I pick a hefty boombox in the case of the ancient Soviet tape recorder “Electronics 211 Stereo” with a soldering iron, the task is to assemble a portable unit with full stuffing, sufficient output sound power and duration of work for going out into the countryside, exercising in the gym and for voice acting in the garage. Here are the requirements that I put forward when developing the device for its power supply:
– stable power supply for my built-in digital 5-volt devices with an average current of at least 1A – outdated PDA, player, as well as external devices – USB and SD flash drives, hard drive;
– power amplifier power supply voltage from 11 to 18V;
– independent power supply, sufficient for continuous operation of the device at maximum volume with constant performance;
– external power supply from the network 220 volts;
– external power supply from the vehicle’s on-board network;
– electronic power management;
– zero battery power consumption in standby mode;
– control of the discharge of the battery of Li-Ion batteries with a warning about the discharge and auto-shutdown;
– selection of parts, if possible, from waste elements (places in the boombox body with a large excess).
In my opinion, all development points were successfully implemented, partially except for the last one – I still had to spend $6.2 to buy an efficient DC-DC converter module, another $13.2, respectively, 4 batteries. and $2.8 battery box for 4 pieces. The rest of the parts were soldered from burnt motherboards and an assortment of ancient Soviet iron.
Now the development steps themselves.
In the text of the article, I will not indicate the designations of the parts used; they are given on the diagrams for convenience.
1. Selection of the primary source of autonomous power supply.
The primary power source is 4 Li-Ion 18650 batteries with a capacity of 2500 mAh without built-in charge / discharge control. After researching the Internet for the possibility of charging a battery from 4 batteries connected in series, it turned out that this task was not trivial, and in fact it was decided to charge the batteries separately with an external charger – this way their service life would be maximum. For a single battery, the recommended cutoff voltages are lower and upper 2.75V and 4.2V, respectively; for an assembly of 4 batteries, the lower cutoff voltage should be 11V. Compliance with the operating rules when discharging and charging batteries guarantees long-term operation of the battery, so you should not neglect them in any case. The maximum voltage of a charged battery can be 16.8V, the average operating voltage is 14.8V.
2. Implementation of the primary power supply scheme.
As part of the tape recorder “Electronics 211 Stereo” there is a stabilized power supply according to the scheme of a zener diode and a composite emitter follower, which is easily tuned to a voltage of 17V with sufficient load current (in the diagram – in a dotted rectangle). With the maximum possible battery charge of 16.8V, power decoupling and polarity reversal protection is achieved by connecting a Schottky diode in series with the battery and connecting the circuit directly to the output capacitors of a standard power supply. There is no leakage of battery current in the absence of mains power, since the base-emitter transistor of the standard stabilizer will be turned on in the opposite direction. An external 12 … 14V power connector for the car is inserted into the battery circuit break, the design of which includes a battery circuit breaker, which also provides power isolation.
3. Key element selection for power supply.
As a key element, an n-channel powerful MTD3302 field-effect transistor was found on a burned motherboard. The open channel resistance is 10 milliohms, the transistor opens with a gate voltage relative to the source of about 4V and higher, the maximum drain-to-source voltage is 30V. With a switched voltage of 13V at a load of 27Ω, the drain-source voltage of an open transistor was vanishingly small. Similar transistors can be found on any motherboard.
4. Implementation of electronic load on/off and battery discharge control.
Taking into account the implementation of primary power circuits, the key must switch voltage from 11 to 18V, and also have control circuits that will not consume current when the key is open.
A 11V D814G zener diode was chosen as a reference voltage source, connected from the drain of the key in series with a quenching resistor to the power plus. The choice of a zener diode is determined by a wide range of operating currents, which cannot be provided by a low-power analogue. The voltage across the quenching resistor is monitored by a silicon p-n-p transistor, if the voltage is close to zero, then the transistor closes and the circuit turns itself off. When the control transistor is open (which means that the supply voltage is not lower than 11 volts), voltage is applied to the gate of the key transistor through a divider on high-resistance resistors, which keeps it open.
The circuit for switching the state of the key is made on the basis of a charge accumulator on a capacitor, which is connected between the power supply plus and the drain of the key through high-resistance resistors. When the key is open, the capacitor is charged, and the potential of its negative electrode relative to the source approaches zero, and vice versa – when the key is closed, the capacitor is discharged through the load resistance and the potential of its negative electrode relative to the source approaches the supply voltage. Since the time of charging and discharging the storage capacitor to the threshold value of the switching voltage relative to the source of 4V must be balanced, a separate charge/discharge circuit of the capacitor using a diode and an additional resistor is shown. When the power button is pressed, the charge accumulated on the capacitor opens or closes the key, and the circuit goes into one of its two stable states.
5. Low battery indicator.
For the indicator to work, it is necessary to monitor the supply voltage level in the same way as the controlling transistor does in step 4, i.e. you can use the finished part of the circuit with a zener diode, already implemented in step 4. It is also necessary to take into account that the discharge indicator should glow from a supply voltage level of approximately 12V and below until the key closes. The indicator amplifier is assembled on the basis of a cascade of two germanium transistors according to a common emitter circuit with a positive feedback circuit for organizing hysteresis (provides a sharp turn on of the indicator when the threshold value is passed). Germanium transistors were chosen based on the fact that the base-emitter junctions of such transistors open at a significantly lower voltage drop than silicon ones, and thus it is possible to adjust to the desired input voltage level before the control transistor de-energizes the switch.
6. Select DC-DC 5V voltage converter.
I found an interesting device from the Chinese – VMP3203. This is a ready-made assembly that contains almost all the necessary elements for use with a minimum of strapping. The conversion efficiency according to the datasheet is about 95%. The maximum output current is 3A at a voltage of 5V. Input voltage range 8 – 24V. I have not yet checked the output voltage ripple, because the overall assembly of the structure is not finished.
Result: electronic power management circuit, providing power to both digital devices and power amplifier. The circuit monitors battery discharge and warns of low battery voltage, uses both autonomous and external power. The discharge of the batteries is excluded due to the zero current consumption of the switched off device. The vast majority of parts come from carefully organized studs and dead motherboards. Profit!
UPD1 An error was made while redrawing the circuit from a bunch of wires. The diode in the recharging circuit of the opening/closing capacitor key was reversed, corrected. The positive feedback resistor in the battery low voltage indicator amplifier circuit has been adjusted more accurately (200k instead of 75k). If interested, I can lay out the wiring and a photo of the finished printed circuit board.
8 kW Universal Diesel Heater for Garage, Camping or Greenhouse / Tools / iXBT Live
The Chinese industry does not stand still – convenient portable heaters a la Webasto have become available, only simpler and cheaper. We are talking about autonomous heaters, which are suitable not only for any vehicles, but also for stationary placement. For example, to heat a garage during the cold season, to maintain a set temperature in a greenhouse during frosts, etc. The principle of operation is based on the combustion of diesel fuel in a special chamber and a heat exchanger that implements air convection with temperature control.
It is a compact self-contained unit with combustion chamber, heat exchanger, fuel tank and built-in controller. Fuel pump control, glow plug control, heat exchanger fan control, as well as temperature sensors are provided.
Let me highlight the main advantages of this solution:
- all components are in one block, there are two handles for carrying.
- compact solution, space saving, easy to move, easy to install.
- is quite easy to maintain, in fact, you only need to refuel.
- easy to set up – you only need to set the temperature from the remote control.
Characteristics of the device:
Brand: Hcalory
Type: auxiliary heater
Fuel type: diesel (diesel fuel)
Fuel tank volume: 5 l.
Fuel consumption: ~ 0.1 liter/hour
Control: controller with control panel (LCD screen) and remote control
Control: temperature (outside temperature, temperature setting), overheating protection, idle protection (no diesel) , circuit protection
Power supply: 12/24V.
Power adjustment: 1-8KW
Dimensions: 42 x 41 x 15.5 cm
The appearance of the device is shown below in the photographs. Notice the carrying handles. The mass is small, especially if you have not had time to refuel. In total, up to 5 liters of diesel fuel (diesel fuel) are placed. If we take into account the average consumption of about 0.1 liters per hour, then a couple of days can be continuously heated by a similar model without any problems.
Supplied as a turnkey kit – the box contains everything you need to work, including pipes and clamps for connection. The device was packed in “foam”, delivery was from a warehouse in Russia.
The kit includes a quick user manual for maintenance of the combustion module (chamber, candle, heat exchanger), as well as for setting up the remote control and controller. The instruction is in English, there is a machine translation in Russian. In my configuration there was a wireless remote control with a color screen. The remote control runs on two AAA batteries (not included).
As I said above, the delivery includes special pipes for exhaust gases and redistribution of the warm air flow. Mounted with supplied clamps.
The heat exchanger blower is visible on the rear panel. Also, a harness for power supply (12V) goes to the rear panel.
There is a warm air vent on the front panel. It is envisaged that you connect the corrugated pipe from the kit to the outlet and direct the flow in the right direction. The fins of the massive radiator of the heat exchanger are visible in the hole.
The body of the device is made of two parts – a chassis and a casing. Red casing, made of stamped sheet metal. There is a sticker with model parameters.
There is a filler neck on the top of the housing. The cork, like the tank itself, is plastic, which significantly reduces the total weight of the device.
The fuel tank is only 5 liters, but it is enough for several tens of hours of operation. You need to fill with diesel fuel (DT).
There are two connections on the bottom panel under the device – this is the air intake for the combustion chamber and the exhaust gas outlet. Without fail, we remove combustion gases outside, from the room.
Visual description of the operating principle and scheme of the auxiliary heater. The directions of hot and cold air flows, as well as exhaust gases, are clearly visible.
In order to ensure the integrity of the internal components after transportation or long-term storage, as well as to access the inside for maintenance purposes, remove the cover. The panels are fixed on special fasteners at the bottom of the case, 4 in total. Let’s snap them off.
“Two-story” heater layout – at the bottom there is the main device with a combustion chamber and heat exchangers, at the top – a fuel tank and a fuel pump.
The outlet from the tank is moved to the side, there is a possibility of insufficient intake of fuel residues at a low level. Keep this in mind.
The fuel pump is quite simple in design, controlled directly from the remote control. At the outlet of the pump there is a transparent supply tube, through which you can easily follow the process of supplying fuel to the combustion chamber.
Detachable controller, connected via a special protected connector.
To turn on and test the device, apply power. It is most convenient to use an old, but charged 12 volt car battery. The harness has a fuse to protect the circuit from short circuits.
The set temperature can be set between 16°C and 35°C. You can set it both before work from the panel or remote control, and adjust it already in the process of work. Built-in sensors display the outside temperature, there is protection against overheating. The OSD menus are shown below.
The remote control must be paired with the controller once, when it is first turned on. In the future, it will synchronize on its own. The description of the process is available in the instructions, depending on the model of the controller and the model of the remote control.
Refuel some fuel for testing, being careful not to spill it. It makes sense to use a funnel. I used the usual “diesel fuel”, merged from a heavy truck. It is not necessary to fill the full tank of the device, it is enough to pour fuel above the level of the fuel pump tube. After the first refueling, you need to “pump” the fuel through the tubes in manual mode (from the remote control).
Supply power to the device. The controller monitor is turned on and off by long (~ 3 s) pressing the middle button (power). The right button decreases the setting value, the left button increases it. You can enter the settings menu by long pressing the corresponding key.
Before work, we first connect the remote control, for this we enter the synchronization mode on the remote control itself, and on the controller. After linking, control from the remote control is available, and the current operating parameters are displayed on the color screen of the remote control.
Preheating of the glow plug is switched on. Here is an interesting moment, pay attention. Conventional switching power supplies do not work with the heater, as they go into short circuit protection when the candle is turned on. The current consumption is about 10A at a voltage of 12V. I managed to start from a special start-charger designed to work with high currents. It will run on a regular car battery without problems, but keep in mind that the glow plug is constantly running and the battery will gradually drain. You can purchase a separate powerful power supply (I would take it with a double current margin, something like 240 W).
The heat exchanger gradually warms up and begins to emit heat to the outside. Also, hot exhaust gases exit at the bottom through the outlet pipe. The ambient air begins to warm up, the heating rate depends on the set temperature and directly on the volume of the room.
Thus, after proper installation of pipes for exhaust gases, and stationary placement of the heater, it became possible to heat the garage in the cold season.